Larry!
Larry Dobbs has been the service manager for over twenty years. He has a wide variety of interests but his main hobby is "fixing things."
Larry Dobbs has been the service manager for over twenty years. He has a wide variety of interests but his main hobby is "fixing things."
From automotive to trivia, Larry can find the answer.
Question: Hi Larry!
> I have a question about oil--Mark just got the truck oil changed
> and they said he should be using DuraBlend instead of just the
> regular oil--we do not pull anything behind it or do heavy loads
> do when need to use this kind of oil?
> its a 2000 Dodge Dakota - 8 cyl. with about 64,000 miles
> thanks for you help
> I have a question about oil--Mark just got the truck oil changed
> and they said he should be using DuraBlend instead of just the
> regular oil--we do not pull anything behind it or do heavy loads
> do when need to use this kind of oil?
> its a 2000 Dodge Dakota - 8 cyl. with about 64,000 miles
> thanks for you help
- Jen
Answer: Jen, Thanks for your question. With this vehicle and the type of driving
you do I would recommend the mineral oil (10W30). Changing the oil every
3,000 miles is your best protection.
you do I would recommend the mineral oil (10W30). Changing the oil every
3,000 miles is your best protection.
- Larry
Question: I have a 1995 mazda MX-6 4 cyl. with o/d light flashing and hard shifts
> 2-3 and 3-4. Have had the tranny rebuilt with no success, then new
> torque converter and upgraded shift kit plus added tranny cooler. Now
> after approx 11 miles of 65mph+ o/d light starts to flash and harsh
> shifting begins. Can clear code and all is fine until the next high speed
> run. Replaced ECU and after 130 miles of mixed driving its started
> flashing again. No codes present on old or new ecu. Help
> 2-3 and 3-4. Have had the tranny rebuilt with no success, then new
> torque converter and upgraded shift kit plus added tranny cooler. Now
> after approx 11 miles of 65mph+ o/d light starts to flash and harsh
> shifting begins. Can clear code and all is fine until the next high speed
> run. Replaced ECU and after 130 miles of mixed driving its started
> flashing again. No codes present on old or new ecu. Help
- Frank
Answer: Frank, The overdrive light flashing could be caused by the transaxle temp
sensor, torque converter clutch solenoid, vehicle or turbine speed sensor or
a loose pin in the computer connector. All these items came up under
"Service Bulletins" for this vehicle. Testing of these items should be done
by a qualified transmission shop.
Thanks for your question, Larry
sensor, torque converter clutch solenoid, vehicle or turbine speed sensor or
a loose pin in the computer connector. All these items came up under
"Service Bulletins" for this vehicle. Testing of these items should be done
by a qualified transmission shop.
Thanks for your question, Larry
- Larry
Question: I have a 2006 Nissan Altima 3.5 SE with five speed manual transmission. I purchased the car new in September 2006 and it now has 37,500 miles on it. Most of the miles are highway miles.
For more than a year I have had difficulty shifting gears. I don\'t think its my shifting style. I\'ve driven manual transmission vehicles for nearly 30 years. The problem is most noticable in the winter when I first use the car each day. The problem is intermittent and presents itself in different ways. Sometimes the first time I shift from first gear, the shifter seems to jump out of first gear. Sometimes it is difficult to get the vehicle into second, third, or fourth gears. Double clutching sometimes helps. Other times I just have to nurse the vehicle into gear. Down shifting can be a challenge sometimes as the vehicle resists going into gear. Down shifting into first gear, even at slow speeds, is virtually impossible at times. I have to wait for the car to stop rolling and then I can shift into first. Even when the vehicle is warm, at times when I shift into a different gear the shifter bumps into gear instead of making a smooth transition to the next gear.
I have bothered two Nissan dealers with this problem for more than a year. Whenever they drive the vehicle, the condition doesn\'t present itself.
One dealer replaced the transaxle under warranty and this didn\'t solve the problem. In fact, driving out of the dealer\'s lot after this work was done, the problem was far more extreme than before. Of course, I had picked up the car after the service area was closed. So I drove the vehicle home, called them in the morning, drove it back, and by the time they test drove it with me the condition had disappeared. four out of seven times that I shifted gears on the way to the dealer, the vehicle shifted with difficulty into a higher gear.
Based on what I am told by others, it appears that the only remaining option is a bad clutch. When the Nissan dealer replaced the transaxle, they \"looked\" inside the clutch mechanism, but didn\'t open it up.
Do you have any suggestions or comments?
For more than a year I have had difficulty shifting gears. I don\'t think its my shifting style. I\'ve driven manual transmission vehicles for nearly 30 years. The problem is most noticable in the winter when I first use the car each day. The problem is intermittent and presents itself in different ways. Sometimes the first time I shift from first gear, the shifter seems to jump out of first gear. Sometimes it is difficult to get the vehicle into second, third, or fourth gears. Double clutching sometimes helps. Other times I just have to nurse the vehicle into gear. Down shifting can be a challenge sometimes as the vehicle resists going into gear. Down shifting into first gear, even at slow speeds, is virtually impossible at times. I have to wait for the car to stop rolling and then I can shift into first. Even when the vehicle is warm, at times when I shift into a different gear the shifter bumps into gear instead of making a smooth transition to the next gear.
I have bothered two Nissan dealers with this problem for more than a year. Whenever they drive the vehicle, the condition doesn\'t present itself.
One dealer replaced the transaxle under warranty and this didn\'t solve the problem. In fact, driving out of the dealer\'s lot after this work was done, the problem was far more extreme than before. Of course, I had picked up the car after the service area was closed. So I drove the vehicle home, called them in the morning, drove it back, and by the time they test drove it with me the condition had disappeared. four out of seven times that I shifted gears on the way to the dealer, the vehicle shifted with difficulty into a higher gear.
Based on what I am told by others, it appears that the only remaining option is a bad clutch. When the Nissan dealer replaced the transaxle, they \"looked\" inside the clutch mechanism, but didn\'t open it up.
Do you have any suggestions or comments?
- Steve
Answer: Steve, Your question was very detailed and had all the required infomation. The statement that you can put the trans in 1st only after coming to a stop indicates a problem is in the trans syncos. Also double-clutching indicates the same problem (inside trans). This could be caused by incorrect transmission fluid. There is a service bulletin, Classification: MT02-001a Reference NTB03-015a Feb 15, 2007 that states whenever repairs or replacement is made to the transaxle special fluid should be used. "Nissan Manual Transmission Fluid (MTF) HQ Multi 75w-85 oil. (pn 999MP-NTF00P) is required"
The problem being worse after replacement of the transaxle may be from the wrong fluid. We have used synthetic based gear lubes to solve similar problems.
The problem being worse after replacement of the transaxle may be from the wrong fluid. We have used synthetic based gear lubes to solve similar problems.
- Larry
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